Leaving Laos

In many ways it is a shame that we do not measure a country's wealth by the happiness of its people, their friendliness and kindness, and their sense of community. Others might argue that there is no happiness in poverty (which predominates the Lao population), but I am not sure I buy it. Their are possessions that extend beyond the material; but would I trade my comfort in the US for happiness in Laos?

I am leaving Vientiane and very sad by it. I went for one last look of the Northern Mekong this morning, but will be reunited with it in the South in Cambodia.

Yesterday's kayaking trip was a most successful undertaking. We travelled from Vientiane to the Nam Lik River (near Vang Vieng) via public sawngthaew (think a covered pick up truck with benches running on the payload and a standing platform hanging off the back). This meant that in addition to carrying tourists, we carried locals, pharmaceuticals (at least I hope they were medicines and not drugs!), oranges, etc. It was quite an adventure and on the way there we had to stop to change a tire!

On the way I met a delightful English couple and Muslim Malaysian family on vacation. The head of the family, Nik, was a great character. He jumped aboard the sawngthaew smoking a cigar with a big smile. I immediately liked him. Turns out that he has an amazing career in Australia and Malaysia and is now managing a $100m development fund for the World Bank. He travels around the world doing deals. Very, very interesting... sounds like something I might be into.

The kayak trip was beautiful as we went through an area with hardly anyone else. We made it through a series of small rapids and one large one. I was the only non-guide boat to get through the rapid without tipping (a result of me going alone and not my kayaking skills)! We also did some jumping into rapids and a 7m drop from a cliff. More interesting was the gorgeous scenery and fishing camps we passed. We encountered several local fisherman fishing in their skivvies.

The ride home was almost as adventurous as we had even more people aboard and someone's soup leaked all over the people riding on the platform behind the sawngthaew. Fun!

I am heading to Cambodia soon. I fly into Phnom Penh and may stay there the night or head to Siem Reap (near Angkor Wat) via boat... like Henri Mouhot (who "re-discovered" Angor Wat in the 1850s). Very romantic to travel like a discoverer :-)

My hotel's connection is slow... no pictures until later.