They Call it that Old Mountain Dew and Those That Refuse it are Few

Sorry for the absence, but while there is internet in Sa Pa, it is not very many places...

Took my first overnight train ride to get to Sa Pa. Kind of fun and different. I was tired, so sleeping was not an issue. Sa Pa is known for the many hill tribes in the area. There are many tribes, but predominantly Black H'mong, Red Zao(?), and Tsai(?). In particular we met many H'mong. It has been centuries (if ever) that these tribes have ever had an independent nation. Many of the tribes are scattered across Vietnam, Lao, and Thailand. They have not been assimilated by the larger ethnicities and have maintained separate language, culture, and religion. The H'mong had actually been armed in Laos by the CIA to fight the communists there.

Arrived in the morning, checked in, and went on a trek to the Cat Cat village that included Black H'mong and Red Zao (?) tribes. It was very interesting to see these subsistence farming communities. Pigs, buffalo, dogs, chickens, and kids all running wild throughout the hillside! We also had an excellent guide in a young Red Zao named Mae. She had left her village and now lived in Sa Pa. She had wanted to attend high school but could not afford it (primary and secondary school in Vietnam are free, but high school and college cost money). She was very independent and I admired her for it. She was 23 and unmarried... very unusual for the area.

That afternoon was off from a formal tour, so I headed for a nearby garden. It was very pretty (I will post all these pictures when back in the states... upload speeds are too slow here!). That evening there was a blackout of all of Sa Pa from 5-8pm. These occur 1-2/week to help the area save power. We did not know it was coming and stumbled around a dark downtown trying to find our hotel (and avoid animal feces!). We did manage to discover an excellent bakery (Baguette and Chocolat) that I would recommend to all.

The next day was very foggy (most days in Sa Pa seem to be). For much of our trek we could not see beyond 20 yards. This kind of scary when you are going downhill and staring into what seems like a white abyss. It was also very muddy, but we manage to avoid any major slips. The fog would clear for minutes at a time it was beautiful to look at the terraced rice fields. They looked like stairways to heaven as they climbed up the hillside and were lost in fog. On the way down, we also had the occasion to chew on sugar cane. Despite growing up in Florida (with King Sugar) I had never chewed on raw cane before. You essentially bite off a piece, suck the juice, and spit out the bark. Quite refreshing after a long hike!

At last we made it to the village (Black H'mong and Tsai). The local primary school was having a teacher appreciation day and so the kids were holding a carnival. Someone was playing techno and it was a fun experience to see such mirth.

Our last day in Sa Pa we spent some time around the city (very cute mountain place) and spoke to some of the locals. In particular, we befriended a sassy and charming 16 year old Black H'mong who did not want to get married. Her English was very good (learned from tourist) and she was very clever with it. It is interesting that while the men continue in traditional occupations (farming, building, etc) it is the women that have become the "business people" by meeting and selling with tourists. These women build their own businesses while the men remain hidden. I have heard that many international development projects focus on female enterprises and I now see why.

One more thing to note... if you go to Sa Pa, make sure you try one of the local dishes with lemon grass. I like lemon grass, but it typically drowns out other flavors. The local Sa Pa lemon grass is more mild (or perhaps it is their preparation) and produces wonderful pork and chicken dishes.

That evening we boarded the train and overnighted to Hanoi. Went to a cute market by our hotel and got the best Pho (except they used wheat and not rice noodles) and Banh Mi (Vietnamese sandwiches) of the trip.

Just two more days and then I head home, but I will wait for the plane to be wistful!